Bridal/Wedding Gown & Special Occasions Wear Guide |
| You've just said to the man of your dreams, and your head is spinning. You're ecstatic, you're in love, and you're about to be married. Life is good. Now comes the really fun part -- finding the gown. It can be tough to focus at a time like this, but you must! And you must also do your homework. Life will be much easier during shopping if you know a sweetheart neckline from a halter.
Here is a crash course to help you map out the road to the perfect wedding gown before you traverse it. Here you will information about silhouettes, bodices, trains, sleeves, fabric -- if it has ever been associated with a wedding gown, it will be covered here.
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Silhouette |
| A-Line |
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These are the most popular because they are also the most forgiving. Fits those well whether tall, short, curvy or straight. It flares gently from the shoulders down. It comes in a variety of bodice styles. |
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| Ball Gowns |
 | Ball gowns will accentuate the feminine hourglass shape with a narrowly fitted waistline and a full flowing skirt. Waistlines on a ball gown may be v-shaped, natural, and slightly higher than natural or lower on the hips. Ball gowns often look best on tall women who can carry of the round shape of the skirt. |
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| Empire Waist |
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Empire waists are cut similar to a baby doll or a maternity shirt with a high waistline that starts just below the bust. The skirt is usually slender and graceful. Empire waist gowns are some of the most elegant, figure flattering styles available. It is especially flattering on smaller busted women because it gives the breasts some lift and brings the eye toward the neckline. |
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| Mermaid |
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The mermaid dress is slim, sexy and body hugging down to the knees or just below the knees where it then flares out. This style is very unforgiving. It is best reserved for those women who are either gently curvy or who love their full figure voluptuousness. |
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| Princess |
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The vertical panels of fabric follow the natural contour of the body on the princess style. It is slightly more dramatic than an A-Line design, but is just as easy to pull off and can be personalized with fabric and embellishments. |
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| Sheath |
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This dress is generally simple and elegant. A sheath dress follows the natural body curves from shoulder to hem. They often cling to the body and many are strapless or even backless. When considering a sheath, you should consider your body athletic and non curvy. Sheaths look fabulous on women of all heights but the sheath adorned bride needs to be buff and lean. |
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Dress Lengths |
| Asymmetrical |
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For the bride who is having trouble deciding on a length and asymmetrical dress features one side longer than the other. This is a dramatic look and is best for a sophisticated, nighttime wedding. |
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| Floor Length |
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These don't fall all the way to the floor, but ?" to 1" from it. These are more formal and work best for eveni. |
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| Mini |
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For the younger or more daring bride there are mini skirts. These tend to be chosen more for an informal daytime wedding. They are also common to be seen as a second dress for the reception. |
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| Street |
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For the practical bride who doesn't want to have to lift up a skirt every time she takes a step, the street length skirts fall just below the knee. While this can be a flattering length for most women, it rarely looks like a wedding gown because it is a length that is so often seen in suits and casual dresses. This is more popular for a bride who is marrying for the second or third time. |
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| Tea |
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These skirts are slightly longer than a street length and are hemmed at the lower calf or mid-ankle. This length is great for smaller women because it doesn't overwhelm the figure with too much material. It also works well for late-morning or afternoon weddings. It is more informal than a longer gown. |
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| Bouffant |
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This skirt is very full and even possibly with a hoop. It is best worn on women who long legs. Although you may think that wide-hipped women can use this style to hide extra weight because it only works well when it is completely filled out by a body underneath. |
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| Box Pleated |
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Deep, parallel pleats of fabric cascade down the skirt. This style can be very forgiving and dramatic, especially when it's done in a heavy satin. Simple, unadorned satin or other smooth fabrics can be made to look lush with this cut and design. |
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| Bustled Gown |
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Fabric is gathered below the waistline in the back of the dress to create fullness. Lifting the train to the waistline and attaching it to the back of the dress with buttons or hooks is another popular way to create a bustle. This style is very flattering for women of all shapes and sizes. It also allows a woman to have a train for the ceremony and then raise it for the reception so she can dance and move more comfortably. |
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| Pickup Hemline |
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This skirt is graceful and elegant. It features pieces of fabric that gather and drape in a curve to one point, then another point, several times all around the dress. This line brings the eye down, away from the center of the body, which can make a small woman look taller and a heavy woman look leaner. |
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Riding Coat |
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This style features two skirts in one: An overskirt covers an A-Line skirt from the back to just past the hips, where it opens to reveal a skirt underneath. This can be done in a demure manner ot reveal two wonderful fabrics, or it can be done as a sexy look with a see-through chiffon or lace as the underskirt. |
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Trumpet |
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This skirt is sophisticated and flirtatious at the same time. It is slim and hugging until it reaches the mid-thigh, where it flares out. It isn't always easy to move in, because the upper part of the skirt is tight. This style is best for very formal weddings. |
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Necklines |
Bateau |
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This neckline is also known as a boat neck. It comes to just below the collarbone and goes straight across the chest, following the natural curve if the collarbone. This can be done with or without sleeves. It tends to look best on women with larger busts and not broad shoulders. |
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Bertha |
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Bertha necklines are close to being off the shoulder, but not quite. The bertha has a wide collar that crosses in front of the bust. It looks best on smaller-busted women, because it creates an illusion of depth and cleavage. |
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Contessa |
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An off the shoulder neckline, the contessa attaches to the sleeves to form a continuous line across the arms and chest when the arms are down at one's sides. This is an elegant look that flatters long, slender necks and well-defined collarbones. |
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Halter |
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A halter neckline is made just like a halter top. It has two pieces of fabric that go up from the waist to bust and join at the back of the neck. This is a sleek, sexy, informal look. With buff arms, this is a beautiful choice. It can be seen in lace and in satin and works well only if you don't need a bra. This works best on smaller busted women.
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High Illusion |
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This neckline, made of sheer fabric, fits snugly against the neck with an ornately decorated band of satin, crating a choker effect. A very formal look, this neckline gives the illusion of sexiness without being over the top. |
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Jewel |
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Jewel necklines are high cut and circle the base of the neck. They are a very formal and look and works best for a nighttime wedding.
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Off the Shoulder |
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With an off-the-shoulder neckline, the sleeves sit at the upper part of the arm, so the shoulders are exposed. This allows the dress to have a sexier look while maintaining some sleeves. There is less skin showing than a sleeveless gown. |
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Portrait |
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On a portrait neckline, a shawl-like collar wraps around the shoulders. These bodices are often chosen because they frame the face beautifully, making you look gorgeous. |
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Scoop |
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Scoop necklines are softly rounded and slope downward across the collarbones or bust lines. A scoop neckline can be flattering to almost any women's shape. |
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Sleeveless |
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A sleeveless gown has just that, no sleeves. The back and front of the gown attach at the shoulder with narrow pieces of fabric. You can only pull off a sleeveless gown if you arms are in perfect shape. It is very popular because it is sexy and carefree while being sophisticated and fresh. |
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Square |
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A square neckline is similar to the scoop, but more elegant and formal. Square necklines work well for almost anyone. |
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Strapless |
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On a strapless dress your arms and shoulders are completely bare. Strapless dresses may or may not have what's known as a crumb catcher. It's an extra panel of fabric that attaches to the top of the bodice and sticks out slightly from the body. Strapless dresses are very popular these days. |
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Sweetheart |
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One of the most popular shapes, the sweetheart neckline dips down to a point into the cleavage. This romantic style allows for a daring plunge but more shoulder coverage. It is flattering to most women and most bust sizes. |
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U-Scalloped |
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These u-shaped necklines are most frequently embellished with scalloped lace or appliqués. These necklines rely on design to bring drama and a sense of style to the dress.
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V-Neck |
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These necklines have a v that is created by a plunge into the cleavage. The v can be either subtle or sexy. These necklines are very flattering to larger-busted women because they create an optical illusion that visually minimizes breast size. |
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Backlines |
Backless |
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For the bride who isn't afraid to show it all, a backless gown can be beautiful. It will provide very little coverage and support in the back though. Backless backlines are common on halter dresses, as well as other contemporary styles. With this style, you will want to make sure that you have a clear, blemish-free skin and good muscle tone. |
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Keyhole |
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With a keyhole backline, a peek a boo-style cutout in the back of the gown exposes a section of skin without showing the whole back. It can be flirtatious without being risqué. |
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Scoop |
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The scoop is similar to the scoop neckline except that the fabric drapes gracefully across the back in a curve. A modest and pretty look, the scoop backline flatters short hairstyles or women who are not wearing a long veil. |
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Surplice |
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The surplice back has two panels of fabric that overlap at the waist and come up to the shoulders in a v-shape. This backline can be created with satin as well as with gatherings of chiffon for a more Grecian look. |
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Sleeves |
Balloon |
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Balloon sleeves are short and puffy. They can be either on or off the shoulder. They need to be proportioned not only to the dress but also to your height and weight. |
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Bell |
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These are long full sleeves that are tapered down the arm and then flare out at the wrist in the shape of a bell. It's an excellent way to cover the arm. |
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Capped |
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A feminine, dainty look, capped sleeves are petite, fitted sleeves that just cover the cap of the shoulder. They look great on sleek, toned upper arms. |
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Dolman |
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To produce a cape like effect, dolman sleeves extend from large armholes into a fitted wrist. This look is quite sophisticated and glamorous. |
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Bishop |
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These sleeves are fuller in the forearm and gather at the wrist with a wide cuff. Not seen very often but was popular in the 1970's. |
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Melon |
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The melon sleeve is a highly puffed, exaggerated form of the Juliet sleeve. It is rounded from the shoulder to just below the elbow. |
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Illusion |
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Illusion sleeves are made of illusion net and hug the contours of the arm. They are often adorned with beads or sequins. They can be either long or short and are a great way to show off skin without feeling bare. |
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Juliet |
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These sleeves puff out at the shoulder to just below the elbow, then are fitted to the wrist. This is a romantic sleeve that can be used perfectly on a gown as well as on a bridal coat. |
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Fitted |
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Just as they sound, these sleeves are fitted to your arm. They hug from the shoulder to the wrist. In order for this sleeve type to look its best, you must have good muscle tone. |
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Poet |
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Poet sleeves are full sleeves with generally either pleats or ruffles at the wrist. |
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Renaissance |
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They are slightly gathered puffs at the shoulder that taper gradually down to the wrist. They are seen plain or with embellishments of many types. |
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Short |
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They are just as described. They are longer than a cap sleeve but do not come down as far as the mid point between the shoulder and elbow. |
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Tapered |
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The shoulders are slightly full with a gathered shoulder. It then tapers down to the wrist. It creates some interest in the shoulder area but doesn't draw attention away from the face. |
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Tulip |
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This is a short sleeve made up of two panels of fabric that overlay each other. It is a little dressier than a short sleeve without adding much to it. |
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Three Quarter |
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These sleeves are fitted and end slightly below the elbow. It covers the arm without restricting movement. It also doesn't cover up any bracelets that you may want to wear. |
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Trains |
Royal Cathedral |
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For the bride who wants her train to be as long as it can be, the Royal Cathedral is an excellent choice. This train can extend 10 feet or more. It can also be wide enough that it spans the width of the aisle. |
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Cathedral |
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These are also known as a Monarch Train. It is the most formal of the trains beside the Royal Cathedral. It typically extends anywhere from 6-8 feet from the waist. They are generally bustled up or detached after the ceremony to allow the bride to move around easily and not get caught up in her train while dancing. |
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Chapel |
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The Chapel Train is a more modest medium length train that extends anywhere from 3-5 feet. It allows the gown to look more formal without being as dramatic as a cathedral train. |
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Court |
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These are narrow trains that extend up to 3 feet from the hem. They used to be seen on medieval dresses as well as on wedding gowns.
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Sweep |
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Sweep trains are short and may or may not reach the floor. They create a pleasant look to the back of the gown without adding the expense or formality to the gown. |
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Watteau |
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These trains are named after the painter who made them popular by painting brides in them. These are different in the way they attach to the dress. They are attached to the shoulder or the top of a strapless gown. The rarity of them makes them a perfect choice for the bride who wants to make a one of a kind entrance at her wedding. |
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Gown Embellishments |
Appliqués |
| Fabric cutouts that are sewn onto the dress to create a pattern, appliqués may or may not be adorned with beads, embroidery, or sequins. |
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Beads |
Beads can be made from glass, crystal, pearls, petal, or gems. And they can create a pattern on an entire dress or add detail to sleeves, hems, or necklines. Beads are a tasteful way to add color to your gown with soft, muted shades of pink, lavender, gold, blue, silver or green. |
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Embroidery |
Stitching that embellishes the surface of the dress fabric, embroidery can take the shape of various flowers and designs. Sometimes embroidery covers a dress; other times it adds hints of detail here and there, such as on the bodice, the ends of the sleeves, or the hem of the skirt. |
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Jewels |
If you want to dazzle your guests, jewels will add sparkle and shine. Whether real or costume, diamonds, rubies, sapphires, or emeralds will make you and your gown striking. |
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Lace |
With its delicate touch, lace may cover the entire gown or decorate certain sections, such as the skirt, bodice, neckline, backline, or sleeves. |
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Types of Lace |
Alencon |
As its name implies, this is an exquisite French lace with a delicate arrangement of flowers and heavy cording on a fine net background. It's very sophisticated, yet sexy at the same time. |
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All-over |
This is a lace with a wide pattern at repeats over the entire expanse of the fabric. A dress can be made with all-over lace in patterns ranging from flowers to geometric designs. |
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Chantilly |
This is a French lace with a graceful, delicate floral display and intertwining ribbons on a plain mesh background. It is usually edged with a finer, less defined cord than Alencon lace, which tends to give it a softer and more draping appearance. |
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Cluny |
This is best described as an "old fashioned" looking lace made of loosely twisted yarn that gives a thick, three-dimensional feel. |
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Coin-dot |
This is a lace with circles or dots woven into the background netting. |
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Eyelet |
Also called open-weave embroidery, this lace is characterized by its pattern of small, asymmetrical holes. |
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Re-embroidered |
This is simply a floral-patterned lace outlined with a border of cord. |
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Schiffli |
This is a very lightweight, delicately embroidered floral lace that features cotton or rayon yarn embroidered onto a soft, sheer fabric, usually consisting of organza or polynet. |
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Venice |
Venice is a very popular wedding dress fabric with a heavy raised floral design that, like Cluny lace, gives it a rich, three-dimensional appearance and feel. |
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Types of Fabric |
Duchess |
Lighter than traditional satin, this fabric is an opulent blend of silk and rayon that is a good choice for warm weather weddings because of its ability to hold its shape even after a length of time on the dance floor. |
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Italian |
This is a heavier satin with lots of body that features a sophisticated, antique finish. |
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Peau de soie |
Translated from French, it means "skin of silk". This is a smooth, heavy-weight satin woven with an exquisitely fine ribbing. The dull luster is more flattering to most body shapes and sizes than high-luster satins. Polyester delustered satin is more forgiving than silk satins. |
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Slipper |
This satin is especially soft and so shiny that it practically glows in the dark, which can be especially fun once the lights are low in the marital suite. |
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Brocade |
This is a thick and rather heavy three-dimensional fabric embroidered with interwoven, raised designs and a satin-weave background that creates an artistic motif. Jackets or bodices are often made from brocade. This fabric is formal looking and quite traditional (it is also used in home décor). |
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Charmeuse |
From the French word for "enchantress," charmeuse is a soft, lightweight satin woven from silk or rayon that has a modest sheen with the look and feel of whipped cream. Because of its subdued luster, charmeuse is often used in sheath or column dresses. It looks elegant without appearing heavy. |
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Chiffon |
Also appetizingly light, billowy, and delicate, this is a sheer fabric with a simple weave, capable of making your walk down the isle feel like a magic carpet ride. Chiffon can be made from silk, polyester, or rayon and is often part of attendant and mother-of-the bride dresses. |
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Damask |
Slightly lighter in weight than brocade, damask is a type of silk woven in floral or geometric patterns. The patterns are more subtle than those in a brocade, so the effect is more ethereal and understated than traditional. |
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Dotted Swiss |
Sounds cheesy, we know, but dotted Swiss is a sheer, lightweight fabric embellished with small raised dots that can feel as good as they look. This fabric is great for summer ceremonies, casual weddings, and flower-girl dresses. It is not that common on wedding gowns. |
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Georgette |
This sheer, lightweight fabric is often made of silk or polyester. It is slightly heavier and more opaque than chiffon. The twisted crepe fibers give it a more springy quality that makes it seem to move on its own. |
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Jersey |
Jersey is a stretchy fabric great for dresses designed to fit as snugly as a coat of paint. Jersey can include various percentages of cotton or Lycra, allowing for a more natural feel or a more synthetic stretch. |
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Organza |
This is a crisp and transparent lighter-weight fabric similar to chiffon, with a muted luster that gives it a more formal look. It is made of silk, rayon, nylon, or polyester. In silk, the stiffness comes from the natural gum that remains on the fibers after processing. With man-made fibers the stiffness is engineered. In bridal gowns with an overskirt, organza is a beautiful choice, having just enough body to stand out yet still move nicely. In bridal gowns that have large puffy sleeves, an interlining of organza will hold the shape without adding bulk. It is also used as an interfacing where sheerness is a factor. |
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Tulle |
Tulle is used often for veils but also suitable for bodices or skirts. This is a netted fabric that comes in different grades, weights. It can be used in heavy volume (such as for a large skirt or petticoat) or as one sheer layer. |
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Wool/Silk |
As the combination implies, this is a heavier fabric with a sensuously subtle sheen, great for winter weddings, or churches with heating systems on the blink. |
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Figure Considerations for Finding your Perfect Dress |
It's not really about the dress. It's really about you and the dress . The dress and you have a relationship. It might look fabulous on the hanger but not flatter your best features. It might hand awkwardly in the store, but come alive as soon as you put it on. One key to finding the perfect gown is knowing which styles look best on your particular body. You want a dress that will make you look well proportioned and will tastefully accentuate your best assets. There are four basic body shapes, and you fit into one of them whether you're 5'2" or 6'3". |
The Pear |
A pear-shaped woman has narrow shoulders and wider hips. Pears usually have a two-size difference between their top and bottom. For example, if you 're a size ten on the top and a size twelve on the bottom, then you're a pear.
Your goal is to add width to the upper part of your body and deemphasize your lower half. A portrait collar, capped sleeves, or beading on the top of the dress, combined with a simple lower half, will do the trick.
The best dress style for the pear is an A-line or princess cut that moves with your body shape without being too clingy. A higher waistline will also deemphasize your hips and make you appear more slender.
Other good choices include dresses with diagonal bands across the bodice, shirred bodices, wide necklines, jeweled or ruffled necklines, and off-the-shoulder styles.
WHAT NOT TO DO: Don't choose a style that will add any weight to your bottom half. You don't want heavy folds in the dress, a full skirt, or bustles or bows in the back. And avoid detailing on the skirt, such as beads or sequins, which will draw the eye there. Dresses that hug the body, such as sheaths or mermaid styles, also will accentuate the pear shape. On the top of your dress, steer clear of high or halter neckline that will bring the eye inward and make your shoulders look narrow. |
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The Inverted Triangle |
If you have broad shoulders and narrower hips, you're an inverted triangle. Inverted triangles often have a full bust and yet wear a smaller-sized pant.
You're the opposite shape of the pear, so you want to deemphasize your top and draw attention to your bottom half. The inverted triangle should choose a dress with a very simple top and some kind of texture, such as beads, crystals, sequins, or lace on the skirt.
Also look for gowns with an elongated bodice that will draw the eye down and lengthen your upper body. Dresses with a dropped U or V shaped waist or belted dresses will flatter your hips and create a waistline. Ideal sleeves for an inverted triangle are simple with minor gathers that follow the natural shoulder line.
WHAT NOT TO DO: Don't accentuate your top. Some women who are top-heavy feel the need to feature it with a low-cut dress, but you should really be modest on top on your wedding day. stay away from dresses that are textured on top with beads, lace, or sequins. Also avoid oversized sleeves with elaborate detailing, straight skirts, or empire-style dresses - all will accentuate top-heaviness. |
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The Rectangle |
If your shoulders, hips, and waist are all pretty much the same width, then you're a rectangle. Sometimes, rectangles are considered to have a "boyish figure".
If you wish, you can wear more of a sleek, sophisticated dress that doesn't have a definite shape. If you'd rather give the illusion of curves, you can also choose a princess style dress to give some definition to your waist and hips. Or, an empire-style dress will camouflage your waist and place emphasis on your bodice and hemlines. Another option is to wear a jacket over your dress that adds some detail to your waistline.
WHAT NOT TO DO: Don't choose a dress style that has a definite dart, such as a bustline you will need to fill.
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The Hourglass |
If your hips and bust are the same size, and you have a defined waist, then you're an hourglass.
Most wedding gowns are cut in an hourglass shape, so of all the body types you'll have the easiest time finding a dress. You can pretty much do whatever you want in a wedding gown, as long as your top half doesn't look too full. If you want to accentuate your curves, you may opt for a sheath dress or mermaid style. Basque or dropped waistlines will help emphasize your natural waist. If you'd rather look a little less curvy, choose a simple dress with classic lines - nothing puffy or detailed. An A-line, princess style, or an off-the-shoulder dress, will also flatter you.
WHAT NOT TO DO: Your only restriction is you don't want your top or bottom half to look too full. Avoid very low V necks or heavy bodice or skirt detailing, which can make you appear heavier overall.
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I f you're plus sized |
Less is more. If you're going to wear a dress with beads or crystals, keep them subdued and choose the flat rather than rounded ones. Also stay away from dresses that are too fitted or clingy.
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If you're petite |
A petite woman should not let her dress overwhelm her. You want people, notice you, not the dress. If you're smaller than 5'4", stay away from big puffy dresses. Instead, opt for something slim, simple, and form fitting, which will make you look taller.
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If you're tall |
On a tall woman, the most common dress styles can appear too high waisted. To avoid this problem, choose an already high-cut princess or empire waist.
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If you have a large bust |
Go for a simple top that gives you more coverage and is not accentuated with beads, sequins, or lace.
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You have a small bust |
Add weight to your top with sequins or beads. A square neckline or spaghetti straps will be flattering.
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If your arms are on the bigger side |
You don't want a strapless dress or a dress with capped sleeves. Long or three-quarter sleeves will flatter you best.
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